:: Tips for African American and Bi-racial Children's hair care 

This article is by Mahisha Dellinger is President/CEO of CURLS, a line of hair care products developed specifically for bi/multiracial women and girls. Her own Creole-Black heritage spurred her interest, and the result is two groups of products (Curls and Curly Qs), and a wealth of knowledge she is sharing with us in a series of articles offering hands-on assistance.

Caring for your angel's tresses can be a daunting experience, but it doesn’t have to be. Armed with the proper education, the right technique, and, most importantly, the right products – you can master the art of caring for ethnic hair.

For as long as I can remember, I have been fascinated with hair. Because my hair was easy to manage, I began styling my own hair at an early age. Using my long locks, I taught myself how to french braid and soon became a styling expert (or so I thought). As I matured, my interest in healthy Black hair peaked. I learned which hair care ingredients were good for my hair type and which ingredients were not. I learned how to shampoo, condition, and properly handle my hair. Most importantly, I learned to love my hair. With the proper care, your child will love his/her hair too!

Over the years I've read, seen, and experienced unbelievable acts of ignorance regarding ethnic hair care. It is my attempt to provide a few basic tips and tricks so you will avoid common pitfalls.

What You Need to Know

Black hair is extremely fragile. A gentle touch is required to avoid unnecessary breakage and hair loss; therefore, always use a wide-tooth comb or pick when combing the hair. Avoid fine-tooth combs as they snag and pull out curly/kinky hair. Invest in a quality brush; natural boar brushes are the best.
Curly/kinky hair needs moisture, moisture, and more moisture! Consider this when purchasing hair care products. Avoid drying products such as hair spray, mousse, holding gels, etc. Opt for moisturizers, leave-in conditioners, and styling lotions.
All products are not created equal. Just because a product claims to be created for "curly hair" doesn't guarantee that it will be suitable for ethnic curly hair. Products created for Nicole Kidman's curly hair may not work for Angela Bassett's. Caucasian hair tends to produce more sebum (oily secretion created by the sebaceous gland) than Black textured hair; therefore, Black hair requires more oil. Read, no, scrutinize the ingredient list. Look for natural oils and quality ingredients. Remember, the ingredients are listed in order of volume.
What You Need to Have on Hand Wide-tooth comb or pick... the wider the better (Goody has a variety of combs available at most grocery stores):

Natural bristle brush (The Body Shop has a nice selection of brushes)
Hydrating shampoo (try Curly Qs Hydrating Shampoo)
Moisturizing Conditioner (try Curly Qs Quenched Conditioner)
A daily moisturizer – this will add needed moisture, and ease combability (Moist Curls is a great daily moisturizer)

Common Mistakes Made When Caring for Ethnic Hair
1. Over-shampooing – Black hair should not be shampooed every day, or every other day for that matter. Instead, shampoo your child's hair every 5-7 days. I know this may confuse those who shampoo daily; however, you must remember that Black hair needs oil, and because it distributes less sebum, frequent shampooing can dry out the hair and scalp.

Product recommendation: Try our Curly Qs Hydrating Shampoo. It gently cleanses the hair without stripping away essential oils and nutrients.

Tip for getting through "shampoo-less" days: Rinse hair with warm water, apply our Quenched conditioner, and rinse well. This will give you a clean start and provide added conditioning and moisture without stripping away protective oils.

2. Under-conditioning - Proper conditioning is one of the most important steps for healthy hair. Unfortunately, most do not take the time to adequately do so. I recommend giving your daughter a deep conditioning (with heat) once a month, especially during the winter season. Product recommendation: Our Quenched conditioner works great... with or without heat.

3. Using the wrong products – We've discussed the need for natural oils for Black hair; however, you must know that not all oil is good oil. One misconception that plagues African Americans concerning hair care is the use of grease. Grease (thick pomade-like product that usually contains mineral oil and/or petrolatum) is commonly used to moisturize dry hair and scalp. Do not use products that contain mineral oil or petrolatum. Both of these cheap oils clog pores, rob the hair's moisture, and can retard hair growth. Natural oils are the best bet. Jojoba and coconut oil are great conditioning oils. Shea butter is an excellent moisturizer. Avocado oil is rich in vitamins A, D, and E, potassium, and scalp-soothing sulfur. Curls and Curly Qs products contain all of these!

4. Combing, detangling, and styling faux pas - To avoid pain, tears, and massive hair loss when combing out kinky hair, part the hair into four sections. Get a tight grip on the hair (not to hurt your child) and start combing at the bottom and work your way up to the top, section by section. If her hair is extremely thick and coarse, secure the combed out section with a pony tail holder to avoid further tangling. You should always use a moisturizer when combing her out hair, doing so will help to soften the hair and ease combability. Never use water to "wet" the hair! Product recommendation: Our Moist Curls moisturizer is a great choice!
Ponytails and Pigtails
Girls and ponytails/pigtails seem to go hand and hand. Here are a few tips to avoid pigtail disaster:

5. Do not use rubber bands to secure her ponytails, instead use elastics and covered bands. Rubber bands can cause undue breakage and damage.
Remember to always remove the ponytail holders before bed time.
Make sure you braid (or twist) the hair completely... all the way to the ends. Exposing the ends to environmental elements will guarantee split ends.
I recommend adding a coat of leave-in conditioner to the ends before braiding for extra protection. Remember, the ends are the oldest and most fragile part of the hair. They require extra attention.

For Information on the products mentioned in this article, visit http://www.curls.biz/.